Wild Bird Photography
by Melvin Holmes, August 2011
Some of you may know Melvin already from calling Warehouse Express to place an order or to ask for advice. He’s our resident bird photography expert, with over 15 years experience in the field. His passion for this fascinating area of wildlife photography is infectious, so we asked him to share with us why he loves photographing wild birds and he’s been generous enough to offer up some advice for those just starting out…
It is just not possible to do full justice to a topic as specialised as this in a brief blog – this has been my prime photo interest for over 15 years and I am still learning (and who knows, hopefully improving), but I hope I can give you an outline of a few things that will help you.
So where shall I start then? At the end of course!
Your Passion
If you’re reading this, the chances are that like me, you get great pleasure and delight from these fantastic, wonderful, creatures – whether in the garden, at a reserve, or around town.
Picture the non-stop swift, gracing us with too short a visit here in the UK, wheeling and screaming their call at break-neck speed. If you get those vibes, you may well want to capture a picture – and you’ll be hooked.
So when the latest round of the Warehouse Express Staff Competition was announced as “Your Passion”, guess what subjects I was going to enter.
Melvin's winning image from the recent Warehouse Express staff photography competition - D3 + 300mm f4 lens, ISO 400, manual exposure, 1/1600 @ f8
It didn’t start like that of course and that’s the first thing I would like to get across – It ain’t going to be quick and easy. A long term approach, born no doubt of an interest in birds and other wildlife, will be needed to see you through the mistakes that you doubtless will make, and the disappointments along the way.
Before: Getting the shot
The following are some thoughts and pointers which I hope will help all photographic disciplines – but will need to be all the more “just right” to succeed in photographing birds, which is very demanding.
Too often, in my opinion, photographers rely on auto operation. That’s often the way we do things if we don’t know better:
Automatic Exposure
The most sophisticated metering systems (Matrix, Multi-pattern, Evaluative) will give extremely good and reliable results in a good percentage of instances. But guess what – a high percentage of bird encounters will be outside that “easy” envelope.
I learnt this to my dismay the first time I used my “most expensive camera yet” (15 years ago now). It had the latest in sophisticated exposure automation and was clearly going to give me correct exposures in all situations, right?
Wrong! Clearly the algorithm chosen by the camera of the 10,000 it had to choose from was rarely the right one! I was disappointed, but if truth be told it was not the camera. It was that thing behind the camera that was to blame – me. So, I had to really get to grips with exposure and my failure rate hurt me.
Lets state the obvious: birds can be white, birds can be black. They can be taking up a big or a small part of the frame. They can be against a blue sky or one that is virtually white. There’s a few f stops to play with!!
Herring Gull taken on a beautiful, still morning from the fisherman’s boat on the way to Bass Rock - D3 + 300mm f4, ISO 800, manual exposure, 1/2000 @ f8
Picture this – a migrating eagle having just crossed the Mediterranean, flies across the sky which is alternatively blue, then white clouds, then a bit of both. In auto, the camera will change it’s exposure assessment throughout, even if the light falling on the subject (which is the bit you want to expose correctly) is at a constant level. To get it consistently acceptable you will need to take manual control.
- Don’t sweep failure under the carpet
- Look critically and analytically at your results
- Buy a good photography book or join a photo club
- Develop a manual technique that works reliably for you
- That technique will doubtless be a good percentage rational, but the crucial subjective assessment cannot be taught, only learnt through continuous practice
- If you don’t learn it for yourself, it won’t stay learnt
This may all sound purist, but practice (and I can’t emphasise this enough) and practice some more. It will become second nature to you, much more satisfying and produce a higher hit rate of acceptable exposures.
Top tip: understand how your chosen technique works and as a result you will know when reverting to Auto can still be the best bet.
Automatic White Balance
Auto White Balance can work, but like automatic exposure, should be considered as potentially unreliable in different situations. Review your technique in the same way too – but my view is that this is less critical than exposure for birds in natural light.
Raw or JPEG?
Simples, raw. Trust me, I’m a camera salesman! There can be no alternative if you want the best quality images your camera is capable of and your chosen processing software will normally permit colour temperature adjustment. Jpeg files are compressed and the more you change them, the greater the loss of quality will be.
This Puffin shot was cropped significantly and is 'pushing' the post processing somewhat - Nikon D3 + 300mm f4 lens, ISO 800, manual Exposure, 1/2500 @ f8
After: Post Production
For the most demanding of subjects, careful post processing is called for and again your technique will evolve and improve.
I keep:
- The original RAW (for later, different creative post production work),
- A Tiff file as a high quality “first go” processed/optimised image, and
- A Jpeg for ease of browsing and sharing
A couple of post processing tips:
- Back up religiously – if you lose your hard-fought for, fleeting, normally one-off pictures you will feel sick, very sick.
- Monitor accuracy has to be a pre-requisite. Make sure your monitor is accurate and re-calibrate regularly.
- Composition – “do your own thing” is my creed. Crop to what the image demands, trust your own judgement and don’t work slavishly to “rules”
- A really good image will look good in more than one post processing treatment
Another patient wait to get this shot of a Hoopoe. It needed careful post processing beyond Natural History competitions rules limits - D3 + 500mm f4 + 1.4x convertor on Gitzo monopod and Wimberley Head, ISO 400, manual exposure, 1/640 @ f9
Top tip: If you’re entering photography competitions, read the rules! They may restrict the amount of manipulation that is permissible.
Advice on Kit
I have only ever used SLRs but I hope that this advice will help when digi-scoping or using bridge cameras as well:
- Choose as fast an operating camera as you can afford – not just frames per second which can vary with different camera settings
- There are real reasons why bird photographers go for the flagship models, it’s not just ego or self-delusion!
- Fast operation is important. My best camera has what I call a hair trigger – hardly any shutter release lag
- Lenses – guess what? As fast and as long as you can afford
- Cameras with APS-C size sensors obviously give the crop-factor extra reach benefit
- 300mm focal length is fine for, say, sea bird colonies with close access and a minimum maximum aperture of f5.6 will keep size and weight reasonable. Beyond that, cost and weight increase dis-proportionally
- Big lenses demand additional support considerations and ‘normal’ tri/monopod heads will just not do. I lost money on at least 3 heads for my 500mm f4, before buying the one that I have now used for over 10 years, the Wimberley Head Mk II, which is all part of improving my hit rate.
- There is never a single universal camera body or lens solution
- Occasionally, smaller focal length lenses (plus a great big dollop of luck) will still deliver the goods
Photographing this swallow was an exercise in patience! D300 + 300mm f4 + 1.4x convertor, ISO 400, Matrix Aperture priority with -0.7x compensation, 1/1600 @ f8
Remember: kit is nothing more or less than a tool. A means to an end, against whatever you are trying to achieve.
Conclusion
I hope this will help you if you are considering setting out, or you want to improve your success rate, on capturing (metaphorically only!) wild birds. Time spent concentrating on technique, planning ahead, self criticism and analysis is going to be the key.
Whatever my abilities were when I started, it is not where I am now, and the same will apply to you. After some time a personal style will develop, often acquired at a sub-conscious level (blimey – that was a bit deep wasn’t it?) and you will get closer and closer to doing your own thing and that will shine through in your pictures.
If you want to see more of where I’m coming from, you might like to look at my website: www.spiritofthebirds.com
If it helps to inspire – great!
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Found this to be very interesting. The only problem that I have is limb mobility etc plus age factor.
Thanks
Derek BradleyI took up bird phatography about 2 years ago and have had some small success with my pictures. I have now bought a Cannon D7 body and a 400 f5.4 prime lens which I have used with and without a 1.4x converter. I would like to learn more about photographing birds in flight and on water which seems the most difficult to get the exposures right. Which would be a good book to give me some pointers on this type of photography. Your pictures are extremly good I would like to get half as good. Thank you Roy Woolley
Roy WoolleyThis confirms the opinion of practically everyone that I have spoken to. I have had some success but feel that I need to grab the nettle and not rely so much on auto functions which I have tended to do up till now. Thank you for this, I will take the time to do more experimentation and get to know my equipment better. I have excellent equipment but I am sure that I can get better results.
Eric MahyEric
Thank you for that Melvin, very helpful, I will go out with renewed hope and optimism! Now going to look at your website.
Jane CowardIt was very nice to see you used the Sigma 150/500mm. lens I use it for all wild-life not just birds. becase if you get to close they run away or fly away..
I have a Canon 7d with 24/105mm lens for landscape , 150/500mm for everything else.
So yes I do like your photos..
I live in a small village called Rogiet, which lies between Chepstow , & Newport , in South Wales..
bryan
bryanwhat can i say. they are brilliant photos. would be full of myself if i had taken them. i really appreciate the advice. keep it coming.
charlie clarkvery intersting thank you
ken ashthanks Melvin,
Tim Richdaleonly today I thought to myself ‘my next project will be wild birds’ and what pops up in my inbox….. your article! Excellent! Gives me inspiration, (note to self…Must go buy new equipment!)
Thanks for your advice Melvin, I have been taking bird photo’s for years, mainly on Film, (contax) and have only been 25% successful. I shall try and teach myself to keep out of the green box and follow your advice. Thanks once again.
John Burke
John BurkeYour picture of the Herring gull is just fantastic.
John DonaldsonYour comments re exposure are so correct. I just need to practice more. and more … and more
I WISH I WAS AS CLEVER AS YOU.
KEN LEWISThanks for that.
What timing! I – un-planned – sat with a photographer in a hide only the other day and was inspired both by what I saw and the pictures he showed me from earlier in the day.
I can see that i need to adddress the lensrequirement as i am somewhatlimited at present.
Food for thought, though – and I’m hungry to learn.
Richard Bull
RichardBullThanks for that.
What timing! I – un-planned – sat with a photographer in a hide only the other day and was inspired both by what I saw and the pictures he showed me from earlier in the day.
I can see that i need to adddress the lensrequirement as I am somewhat limited at present.
Food for thought, though – and I’m hungry to learn.
Richard Bull
RichardBullHow wonderful! Your helpful advice has inspired me to have a go again – especially the comments about manual settings for exposure – I have long wondered where I keep getting it wrong. It’s interesting that you say ( and encouraging to know) that post production is a necessary tool in many cases. Will look at your website now.
Dorothy ChallandThanks for the tips. I have been taking wild life pictures but not birds. Looking at the picture has inspired to have a go myself.
Thanks
RashidLovely pictures.
DanClear, concise, inspirational. I clearly need to get to grips with manual exposure.
John CookClear, concise, inspirational.
John CookThank you. That was helpful and i will keep on trying things. Off to look at your web site
Catherine MooreMany thanks for the artical I have just printed it out and I intend to read it at my leisure. Being relatively new to this type of photography I have no dobt at all that I will benifit from the advice given in it.. It is very true once you get the bug you are well and truly hooked.
Donald BerryDon Berry.
I’m a 1928 model, physically quite fit, and really enjoy birds & bugs.
reading YOUR PASSION has been a wonderful experience which I will study and learn from.
brian watsonI recently aquired a nikon D1X unused and updated having damaged my previous D1X
manual exposure is something I have been trying recently but on jpeg fine. thankyou
will set up a web for photography
Beautiful images Melvin,
I use the same setup myself a D3 with 300mm f2.8 with 1.4 & x2 convertors. I think I may have 1 image that matches the quality of yours, lol. But as you say practice, practice and more practice. Thanks for sharing.
Dene ThomsonDene
Dear Melvin,
Sherry McKelvieWhat beautiful clear pictures – awesome! I also love photographing birds, but find that getting them in flight is very hard. I am a Brit living in Uganda – we’ve lived here for the last 21 years – and I get some beautiful birds in my garden. Friends have recently encouraged me to make some postcards with my photos – if you are interested, you can take a look at them on http://www.sherry-mckelvie.com – any comments welcome!
Kind regards,
Sherry McKelvie
I regularly publish my bird photographs mostly taken on the Nature Kenya birdwalk around Nairobi parks and woodland (Kenya) I have images of 600 Kenya species. Your advice is sound but I would add that a lens smaller than 400mm is probably too short. Image stabilization is a must. I find birds move too quickly for manual adjustment and I mainly usethe auto action setting (400 iso) on my Canon550 and EF 100-400 F4.5-5.6mm lens) hand-held with stabilizer turned on. I go manual only when conditions are near impossible. Mistakes can usually be corrected in Photoshop to give more than acceptable results. Peter Usher
peter usherMany thanks for that Melvin.
Brian HutsonYou have inspired me to try my hand. So far I seem to be taking a lot of scenary photos.
I have a Sony Alpa 380 and a 70 – 300 lens which I hope will be a starter. I will of course have to learn a lot of patience. I live in the New Forest so I do have a lot available material.
If I can get near half as good as your shots I will be quite happy.
Brian Hutson
Terrific advice from someone who has been there done that!
Derek EwensMany thanks
A really great article I just wish this would have been around 5 years ago when I first started my wildlife photography! Now aged 18 I have learned many lessons ( often the hard way) about wildlife photography and have worked my way up from a secondhand OM10 film camera to my current Nikon D200 and 300 2.8 vr II. I love being out and photographing the natural world and it is great to see more and more people interested in our precious wildlife. If you want to check out some of my work feel free to check out my Blog @ http://www.tommasonphotography.wordpress.com , I look forward to more informative articles from WEX and all of its contributors !!
Tom MasonOh wow, the Herring Gull photo is superb!! Thanks for the advice and inspiration.
Elaine JonesBird photography has been my passion for longer than I care to remember, and of late flight shots are taking priority. The time is long overdue to get to grips with manual exposure.
Hi Melvyn,
Many thanks for your opinions on the phone today, some real solid advice and things to consider. Also really enjoyed the blog and tips, all very true and solid.
There’s no shortcuts to quality
Regards
Stevie BStevie (Gimbal head and tripod enquiry)
I am a llittle confused over the 1/16000 sec exposure on the gannets, it must be a misprint or you should have been using 100 iso. I bought a 7D last year as my 1D was 12 years old and I wanted some of the new features, sure it has a nice crop factor but the noise even at 200 iso sucks!
DerekGreat shots and excellent advice, Melvin. Inspirational quality to aspire to. But is the gannet shot really 1/16000 s? Does the D3 shoot that fast?
Martin GraceMelvyn,
Dave HippersonGreat advice! It’s important that people know it isn’t easy or instant but fantastically rewarding when you get it right.. Switch to manual and practice, practice,practice. Eventually manual is easier cos it mucks you up less often! Very pleased you publish the camera setting under your smashing photos – makes you appreciate how important fast shutters are when you are shooting long lenses. Not tried “serious birds’ yet but you are tempting me. Dave H.
Thanks for the comments Derek & Martin, I’ve spoken to Melvin and he wanted me to pass this on:
I got the exposure for the gannets right on the day ( immodest or what? ) but clearly proof-reading was not so hot – the exposure information should have shown a 1/1600 shutter speed. Thanks again – Melvin
Natalie (author)