How Fast Can You Sync?
by Tim Gander, September 2010
A while back I purchased a Canon G11. Partly because I’ve lacked a decent compact camera for a while, and partly because I’ve always been a bit fascinated with high-speed flash synchronization.
For those who are scratching their heads at what that means, the flash sync speed of any camera is the fastest shutter speed you can use with flash before the shutter and flash fail to synchronize together, and you get a failed photo.
Broadly speaking, in the case of SLRs and Micro Four Thirds (MFT) cameras, where the shutter sits directly in front of the imaging chip, an un-sync’d flash results in a partial blackout of the photo, whereas in the case of cameras like the G11 and the new Canon G12, the flash will simply be underexposed.
With SLRs and MFT cameras, the fastest speed you can use flash at is generally between 1/160th and 1/250th of a second (check your manual for the actual top speed).
However, in the case of cameras like the G11 and G12, you can get away with higher flash sync speeds than with SLR and MFT cameras, which opens up new possibilities for creativity. I can get the G11 to sync at up to 1/800th of a second when using off-camera flash. I haven’t tested the G12 yet, which was launched this month, but it shares the same flash synchronization spec as the G11 so I would expect the result to be the same.
To play with this trick though, you may need some workarounds. Just using the built -in flash, or connecting a dedicated external flash via a TTL cable, normally results in the camera sensing it has a flash attached and defaulting to a lower shutter speed even in Manual mode. Instead, I use PocketWizards connected either to a 580 EX, or a battery-powered portable studio flash.
In the examples on this page, I wanted to experiment with strong evening sunlight coming in from behind the model (my Scene Emo daughter Ellie *sigh of exasperated father*).
The first frame here is a fairly simple portrait, but to get the sky to appear all moody I needed an exposure of f/8 at 1/800th of a second (100 iso). Without flash, Ellie would have been completely black so I just set the flash power manually to fill in from the side, creating this “outdoor studio” look.
The next frame shows you the set up. That’s a Canon 580 EX with a clever little spillkill attached, and triggered via the Pocket Wizard. If you don’t have a pocket wizard, you could use hotshoe PC adaptors on the camera and flash and connect via a cable. Just remember you’re attached, and don’t pull the light over. Also, be wary of non-Canon flash trigger voltages as these might melt your camera internals.
Before we shot the frames you see above, I’d shot the frames which now follow. They were taken inside a large circular stone sculpture at our location (Heaven’s Gate on the edge of Longleat Estate in Wiltshire).
Again this frame is shot at 1/800th of a second to get the blue of the sky and cloud detail to register. What happened in this last frame is called a “happy accident”.
I’d inadvertently reset the camera back to settings which I keep saved in a custom setting (1/250th at f5.6), resulting in massive background blowout and a slightly over-exposed portrait. Note though that without flash, Ellie would still have been a silhouette. The star burst at the base of the guitar is the sun poking through. And as much as I tried to re-create that shot again, the accidental frame remains my favourite of all the shots, which means on this occasion the fast-flash sync experiment was a bit of a waste of time!
Note: In order to fire non-dedicated external flashes or to trigger an attached radio slave, the G11 must be set to Single Shooting mode, not the Continuous Drive mode. Canon flashes attached using the Off- Camera Shoe Cord OC-E3 should work in any drive mode, but the camera will always default to 1/250th of a second, which defeats the object of the exercise.
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Tweets that mention How Fast Can You Sync? | Warehouse Express -- Topsy.comHow would I get the G11 to synch using a cable to my old Bowens Monolites?
RichardWith Super FP flash mode Olympus flashes allow you to sync down to 1/4000 shutter speed
MoiriI have a Nikon d300 and sb800 flash combination. I use an Interfit Strobies i Sync 4 trigger/receiver set to trigger the flash off camera.
AndrewI should be able to achieve a high sync speed of 1/320s with the d300 but this is not possible without significant shutter ‘black out’. Even when using the standard shutter speed of 1/250s the shutter can still just be seen creeping into the frame.
Is this due to a delay inbuilt into the wireless remote trigger set ?
or how can it be overcome?
Hello Richard, I’m not sure what the trigger voltages would be on those “old” Monolights, but to be safe you could buy a Wein Sync Safe to go on the hot shoe of the G11 and plug the cable into the PC socket on the front of that. If I recall correctly, this option is about £60, or you might consider something like the Interfit Strobies wireless triggers http://www.warehouseexpress.com/buy-interfit-strobies-hot-shoe-and-studio-lighting-radio-trigger-set/p1031890 which would have the advantage of isolating your delicate G11 from potentially harmful flash trigger voltages, save the hassle of trailing wires to your Bowens Monolights and cost less at £41.99.
I promise, I’m not a Warehouse Express salesman!
Tim GanderHi Moiri, This is absolutely true, in fact I suspect all manufacturers have a fast flash sync function on their cameras. Canon and Nikon certainly do too, but in every case what is happening is that the flash is “strobing” (a very fast series of mini flashes during the exposure time) in order to expose the whole scene evenly. This is great, but makes the shooting distance for the flash very much shorter than normal. It’s great for close work, but if your subject is any distance away, you want the flash to be operating at higher outputs.
What this article is demonstrating is that with a compact camera the shutter isn’t a curtain shutter like in normal SLR cameras, so the flash can sync at much higher shutter speeds, and without the power loss associated with strobing.
Tim GanderThe use of an electronic shutter, has allowed the implementation very hight flash sync speeds for many years. A 1DS MK3 will sync with TT5 Pwiz at 1/1200 sec. The G12 when used to the max easily 1/2000.
At this level your flash duration is more of a limiting function for non pro units .lol
PatIndeed, Pat, flash duration is something of a limiter. I’m not sure what the flash duration of a 580EX is (the flash used in these shots), but I bet it’s not pro-studio speed! Also fair to say that those on more modest budgets might be glad that with a G-series camera and modest flash outlay, they can at least exceed the normal flash sync speeds normally set by SLRs. Apart from anything else, it’s another idea to experiment with.
Thank you so much for your comments, I do like to see debates on techniques. It shows people are thinking!
Tim GanderNice post. I’m keen to get some gear that will allow me to use my existing Canon flashes (2x 580EXIIs and a 430EXII) in combination with dramatic ambient light lowering shutter speeds without limiting the flash output power. I’m looking at the Canon G12. Using the Canon off camera OCe3 ETTL cord I assume won’t work for this technique as I guess the camera just drops to 1/250th. Would taping over some contacts on the hot shoe get around this problem (flashes in manual obviously)? I got some TR-332 wireless triggers for my EOS 40D so I can fire my three flashes off camera wirelessly in either manual or TTL but am still limited to the 40D’s max sync of 1/250th. I’d happily sacrifice wireless TTL if I could use them at 1/2000th or thereabouts full-power (no HSS). I have 2 PocketWizard Plus IIs also but can then only fire 1 flash unless I fork out for more. Any ideas whether taping over contacts will ‘trick’ the camera thus giving 1/2000th sync? Also, can you confirm the G12 can even do as you’ve achieved with the G11? Many Thanks in advance!
AndyHHi Andy, thanks for your thoughts and questions. Obviously I can’t test every combination of flashes and leads, but I would expect any dedicated lead to make the camera drop to 1/250th sec. With the chord you could try taping over contacts, though this can get messy if the tape slips. I’d hate for you to find your cable is jammed onto the camera. With the wireless triggers, I suspect that even if taping the contacts would still allow the flashes to trigger, they’d probably only fire at full power which would mean your only means of flash adjustment would be in the distance of the flashes from the subject, rather than being able to select power output.
I’ve not got my hands on the G12, but from everything I’ve read in the specifications lists I doubt there would be a problem getting high flash sync speeds from it, this being dependent on what I believe is a “leaf” design (the shutter is in the lens rather than a curtain in front of the CCD). I would advise though that you’re unlikely to get speeds of 1/2000th of a second with flash even with these cameras. The highest I got was around 1/1000th, but this is still far more flexible than the standard 1/250th.
I hope you get to try this technique though, and maybe come back and let us know how you get on.
Tim Gander